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| Variability of rip currents induced by rhythmic sandbars |
Yao ZHANG1( ),Qiang LIU1,Xu-nan LIU1,Guodong XU1,Xiao HONG2,Shui-hua ZHOU2,Wei-jie LIU3,*(),Xi-zeng ZHAO3 |
1. National Marine Hazard Mitigation Service, Ministry of Natural Resources, Beijing 100000, China
2. South China Sea Prediction Center, Guangzhou 510000, China
3. College of Ocean, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan 316000, China |
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Abstract Base on the case study of three coastal beaches in south China, the sensitivity of multi-channel rip currents to the bathymetry and the wave conditions was checked by groups of numerical simulations using the Boussinesq phase-resolving model. The time-averaged velocity, vorticity, and surface elevation were computed and analyzed. Results indicate that the rip strength was in direct proportion to the incident wave height and the channel width. The rip current might be totally absent in small channels when the majority of water flows out through neighboring broader pathways. Alongshore currents prevailed over the rip current when the incident wave angle reached 11 degrees, which was not favorable to the existence of channeled sandbars. Vortices appeared around the edge of the bar crest due to nonuniform wave breaking over the rapid-varying bathymetry. The strong spin of the flow was significantly intensified and stretched along the sandbar array as the wave direction deflected. The setup water was held landward largely by the sandbar and substantially increased with the wave angle. There was no water surface depression in the rip channel as the angle increased, which fundamentally explained why the rip current could not persist when the incident wave became slightly oblique.
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Received: 30 August 2019
Published: 22 September 2020
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Corresponding Authors:
Wei-jie LIU
E-mail: yzhang@nmhms.org.cn;weijieliu@zju.edu.cn
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韵律沙坝触发的裂流动态性研究
基于3个华南海滩案例分析结果，采用Boussinesq相位解析水动力数值模型，模拟裂流环流，检验裂流对多沟槽浅滩沙坝和不同浪高、浪向的敏感性，计算、分析时均流速、涡量和水位的空间分布. 结果表明，裂流强度与入射波高、裂流槽宽度成正比. 在多沟槽裂流系统中，当大部分水流集中从邻近的较宽通道流出时，较窄的沟槽可能不产生裂流. 模拟结果表明：当入射角达到11° 时，沿岸流会逐渐取代离岸流而占主导地位，不利于沟槽沙坝的持续存在. 由于突变地形导致的波浪不均匀破碎，沙坝边缘附近有强涡旋现象，水流旋度随着波向偏转而明显增强，并且沿沙坝阵列拉伸. 沙坝促进了岸边的波浪增水，且堆积水量随着波角的变大而增加. 随着入射波波向的偏转，裂流槽内没有出现水面凹陷，这从机理上解释了当入射波角略微倾斜时裂流现象不能持续的原因.
关键词：
裂流,
韵律沙坝,
波向,
数值模拟,
海洋灾害
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